I’ve declared that I will, by God, enjoy my remaining months in Korea. Accordingly, this weekend I went with Molly on a trip to Seoraksan National Park on the East Sea. Molly gets off of work late, as most hagwon teachers do, so on Friday night we took an 11:40 bus to Sorak, the city nearest the national park.
We hopped in a taxi to Seorak Youth Hostel which, we found out, was about 2.5 km from one of the park entrances. I’d called ahead to let them know that we’d be arriving late, but no one was at the counter. I didn’t know what was the best thing to do. I considered the efficacy of crashing in the lobby until someone came to the counter, and also considered how convinced my companion would be about this plan. The taxi driver helpfully came inside and, when no one answered his call, promptly banged on a door and woke up the attendant. (While he was knocking on said door, I had no idea who would answer. I worried he was waking up other guests.) Well, the attendant was not happy with us. If looks could kill I’d be in a hospital. After charging my card he threw it on the desk instead of handing it to me. I got the key and scooted away from his malevolent glare. It was a cute room. Bigger than my apartment, I think. I slept in a bed. I haven’t slept in a bed since my trip to the Philippines.
In the morning it was really hard for either of us to get going, which we confessed to each other and were happy to find out. But after a lot of snacking and stalling, we got our asses in gear and went to the park. It was an overcast day, and the mountains were shrouded. It was still breathtaking. The mountains here are very rocky and steep, though not so tall. We were at the feet of strange Gods.
Word to the wise: don’t bother yourself with packing water and snacks. We passed two restaurants and several more snack bars. And that’s just on the hike! The part of the park in the valley is crammed with tourist crap. I even saw an arcade. The Koreans definitely do national parks differently than us Americans.
We were doing this all by the seat of our pants and didn’t have any particular hike in mind. There was a large metal Buddha, a Buddhist temple in the valley with a hell of a view. We hiked part way to Ulsanbawi (Ulsan rock), which looked unreal. It gave me goose bumps. We stopped at another Buddhist temple instead of going further, though we hand no intention of going the whole way. I must lose weight and get strong. I want to see these things. I’m such a pansy. I’m constantly afraid of spraining my ankle, which is a valid fear because I’ve sprained it three times this year. Aigo! I shouldn’t shit on myself too much, though. I have been getting stronger and losing weight. Even if I was in the best shape possible we wouldn’t have gone to the peak because it was late. We hiked back down and stopped for a very expensive steak dinner. Molly was wiser than I in trying to dissuade me from my frivolity, but we did anyway. There was a swanky hotel all done up with hokey British memorabilia. They had two double-decker busses in their yard, a fake suit of armor in a lobby with fake books on the shelves. There was an Abbey Road themed cocktail lounge, but we ate in the restaurant which had pictures of British queens in ornate frames. When I call this hotel swanky, I don’t think it would rate more than a midrange hotel back home. I’m sure it’s price wasn’t midrange, but the quality sure was. Molly said it looked like a country club that had gone to seed decades ago.
It was great being in the country side. We had fresh air and found the people to be very friendly.
It rained all day Sunday, so we had to skip our plans to go to Sokcho beach and instead caught a noon bus back to Seoul. Traffic was killer, so our three and a half our trip turned into a five hour trip. To entertain ourselves we took photos of strangers. There was one dude across the isle who was asleep the whole trip, but he was one of those clowns who hangs their head forward and sleeps, but keeps waking themselves up when their head lolls to hard onto their own shoulder. For hours this guy was doing that. What a champion. At one point Molly and I were both asleep and her head lolled and hit me waking us both up. It made me laugh.
Next weekend I’ll make a day trip to either an island or a walled city. And perhaps I’ll write about it a dully as I’ve written about this trip. God, I have no heart for writing about trips if I’m not in them at the time. Maybe some of these pictures will do it more justice than I have.


Molly at the feet of foreign Gods

Moi

Anyone for some bundaegi? (Bundaegi is silk worm larvae. It's quite common to find it for sale by street vendors, and the smell is awful.)

You don't really wanna make me unleash the dragon

Silly toilet sign at a Buddhist temple. The little dude with the exposed butt taking a piss is a monk. This cheeky frivolity really clashes with the sincerity and awe of the place.

My fantasy of Asia.

Ulsanbawi

An upright boulder carved in, I'm guessing here, old Korean. This is near the temple which was the end of our upward hike.

A monk worshipping at the large metal Buddha in a valley.

We definitely were not dressed for such a restaurant. Even if the dinner contained salad dressing from a bottle.

My date seemed rather stiff.

What luck that the girl behind me, unbeknownst to me, was making the same face. (Well, to be fair to her, her face is much prettier than mine right now.)

Molly and I are killing time

Fuck you too, hat!

Molly wanted a photo of the young man behind me. He had a loud (for a Korean) cell phone conversation which annoyed her greatly. He snorted when he laughed, besides, his greater offense according to her, of his high, feminine voice.
Our trip, as that saying goes, didn’t even scratch the surface of what Seoraksan National Park has to offer.